作者生平：

? ? ? ? ? 安德魯·達爾比（Andrew Dalby）是一位古典學者、歷史學家、語言學家和翻譯家，以他關(guān)于食物史（尤其是希臘和羅馬帝國）的書籍而聞名。 《Siren Feasts》 是安德魯·達爾比的第一本美食書籍，獲得了 Runciman（朗西曼）獎，他的第二本書《dangerous Tastes》在2001年獲得了美食作家協(xié)會年度美食書籍。他還是《The Classical Cookbook》和《Empire of Pleasures》以及巴克斯和維納斯的傳記的作者。

《Tastes of Byzantium ：The Cuisine of a Legendary Empire》于 2003 年首次出版

ISBN: 978 1 84885 165 8

本書完整的 CIP 記錄可從大英圖書館、美國國會圖書館獲得

由 Thomson Press India Ltd 在印度印刷和裝訂

The aromas of the city

城市的香氣

'The feast of St Marcianus's church is on Good Friday. At the other churches, even St Sophia, no service takes place on Good Friday. On that day the churches are washed, and violet leaves are spread on the ground,' so we are told by the pilgrim Anthony of Novgorod.' Everyone knows of the nasty smells bred in crowded medieval cities. This Russian traveller, who saw Constantinople in 1200 just before it fell to the Crusaders, reminds us that medieval cities were also aromatic in the best sense. There are similar reminders in the Book of Ceremonies compiled by Constantine Porphyrogennetus. Rosemary, though seldom if ever used in cookery in early medieval times, was among the aromas ('chips of pine and wreaths of ivy, bay, myrtle and rosemary') that were used to improve the streets of Constantinople in preparation for an imperial progress; rosemary, myrtle and ivy are similarly prescribed for the decorations of an imperial dining room. On the feast of the Ascension crosses are woven of roses, then in flower, and one of them is presented to the emperor. On Palm Sunday palm leaves, marjoram and other seasonal aromatic plants are made into wreaths for presentation by the emperor to the members of the Senate in the church of St Demetrius.

? ? ? ? ? “圣馬西亞努斯教堂的盛宴是在耶穌受難日。在其他教堂，甚至是圣索菲亞教堂，耶穌受難日都不舉行禮拜。那天教堂被打掃干凈，紫羅蘭葉鋪在地上，'諾夫哥羅德的朝圣者安東尼告訴我們。每個人都知道在擁擠的中世紀城市中滋生的難聞氣味。這位俄羅斯旅行者在 1200 年君士坦丁堡落入十字軍之手之前曾目睹過君士坦丁堡，他提醒我們中世紀的城市在最好的意義上也是芳香的。君士坦丁·波菲羅根圖斯編纂的《禮記》也有類似的提示。迷迭香雖然在中世紀早期很少用于烹飪，但它是用于改善君士坦丁堡街道以準備帝國進步的香氣（“松樹片和常春藤、月桂、桃金娘和迷迭香的花環(huán)”）之一 ; 迷迭香、桃金娘和常春藤同樣被規(guī)定用于皇家餐廳的裝飾。在升天的盛宴上，十字架是用玫瑰編織的，然后是花朵，其中一個是獻給皇帝的。在棕櫚星期日，棕櫚葉、馬郁蘭和其他季節(jié)性芳香植物被制成花圈，供皇帝在圣德米特里教堂向元老院成員展示。

The spice market is now a familiar feature of Istanbul. Long before the city had this name it was already a focus of long-distance trade, and in those days spices and aromatics were among the most important and the most-costly trading commodities. Just before 900 the emperor Leo VI (known to later generations as 'the Wise') issued a book of regulations for Constantinople's guilds of retail traders, regulations that were to be enforced by a local magistrate, the City Eparch. Naturally the trade in aromatics figures prominently in the Book of the Eparch, most obviously in the chapter dealing with myrepsoi 'perfumiers'. These tradesmen dealt not only in perfumes and dyes but also in the spices that were used in food, drink, medicines and incenses.

? ? ? Every perfumier shall have his own shop, and not invade another's. Members of the guild are to keep watch on one another to prevent the sale of adulterated products. They are not to stock poor quality goods in their shops: a sweet smell and a bad smell do not go together. They are to sell pepper, spikenard, cinnamon, aloeswood, ambergris, musk, frankincense, myrrh, balsam, indigo, dyers' herbs, lapis lazuli, fustic, storax, and in short any article used for perfumery and dyeing. Their stalls shall be placed in a row between the Milestone and the revered icon of Christ that stands above the Bronze Arcade, so that the aroma may waft upwards to the icon and at the same time fill the vestibule of the Royal Palace ... When the cargoes come in from Chaldaea, Trebizond or elsewhere, they shall buy from the importers on the days appointed by the regulations ... Importers shall not live in the City for more than three months; they shall sell their goods expeditiously and then return home ... No member of the guild may purchase grocery goods or those sold by steelyard. Perfumiers shall only buy goods that are sold by weight on scales ... Any perfumier who currently trades also as a grocer shall be allowed to choose one or other of these trades, and shall be forbidden henceforth to carry on the trade that he does not choose.

? ? ? ? ? 香料市場現(xiàn)在是伊斯坦布爾的特色之一。早在這座城市有這個名字之前，它就已經(jīng)是長途貿(mào)易的焦點，當時香料和香料是最重要和最昂貴的貿(mào)易商品之一。就在 900 年之前，皇帝利奧六世（被后人稱為“智者”）為君士坦丁堡的零售貿(mào)易商行會頒布了一本規(guī)章制度，這些規(guī)章制度將由當?shù)氐牡胤介L官 City Eparch 執(zhí)行。自然，芳烴貿(mào)易在《紀元之書》中占有重要地位，最明顯的是在涉及 myrepsoi “調(diào)香師”的章節(jié)中。這些商人不僅經(jīng)營香水和染料，還經(jīng)營用于食品、飲料、藥品和熏香的香料。

? ? ? ? ? 每個調(diào)香師都有自己的店鋪，不得侵占他人的店鋪。 公會成員要互相監(jiān)視，以防止銷售摻假產(chǎn)品。他們也不在自己的商店里存放劣質(zhì)商品：甜味和難聞的氣味不能并存。他們會出售胡椒、甘香、肉桂、沉香、龍涎香、麝香、乳香、沒藥、香脂、靛藍、染藥草、青金石、fustic、storax，簡而言之，任何用于香水和染色的物品。他們的攤位應(yīng)在里程碑和矗立在青銅拱廊上方的受人尊敬的基督圣像之間排成一排，這樣香氣就可以向上飄到圣像上，同時充滿皇宮的前廳......當貨物從迦勒底、特拉布宗或其他地方進入時，他們應(yīng)在規(guī)定的日期內(nèi)向進口商購買...... 進口商在本市居住時間不得超過三個月；他們應(yīng)該迅速賣掉貨物然后回家......公會成員不得購買雜貨或秤桿出售的商品。 調(diào)香師只能購買在秤上按重量出售的商品...... 任何目前兼作雜貨商的調(diào)香師應(yīng)被允許選擇這些行業(yè)中的一種或另一種，并且今后將被禁止從事他沒有選擇的行業(yè)。

This translation is based on the standard one by E.H. Freshfield, but it has needed several corrections in the list of aromatics - a sign of the difficulties that can be caused by the special vocabulary of Byzantine trade.

? ? ? ? ? 此翻譯基于 E.H. 的標準翻譯。 Freshfield，但它需要在芳烴清單中進行幾次更正 - 這表明拜占庭貿(mào)易的特殊詞匯可能造成困難。

Already by the 890s, the date of this important text, Byzantine trade with southern Asia - by way of 'Chaldaea' or Iraq - had been under Arab control for more than two centuries. Hence there are several Arabic loanwords in the text, barzen 'balsam', loulakhi 'indigo' and lazouren 'lapis lazuli'. Byzantine control of Trebizond, a possible terminus of the Silk Road at the eastern end of the Black Sea, did not prevent an Arab monopoly over the trade in eastern exotics: the Silk Road passed through Iran, which was itself under Arab rule.

? ? ? ? ? 早在 890 年代，也就是這個重要文本的日期，拜占庭與南亞的貿(mào)易——通過“迦勒底”或伊拉克——已經(jīng)在阿拉伯控制之下長達兩個多世紀。因此，文本中有幾個阿拉伯語介詞，barzen 'balsam'、loulakhi 'indigo' 和 lazouren 'lapis lazuli'。 拜占庭對黑海東端絲綢之路可能終點站特拉布宗的控制并沒有阻止阿拉伯對東部外來貿(mào)易的壟斷：絲綢之路穿過伊朗，而伊朗本身就在阿拉伯人的統(tǒng)治之下。

Some of the demand for spices and aromatics came from religion. To assist their customers and increase their profits, dealers set up stalls in the precinct of St Sophia, and apparently sometimes right inside the great church. 'One must not establish a shop within the sacred precincts or display foodstuffs or conduct other sales,' instructed the Canons of the Council at Trullo (section 76), safe evidence that some people did exactly this. They continued to do so in spite of the Canons: the later commentary by Zonaras and Theodore Balsamon draws attention to the problem. 'Note that this Canon relates to those who trade in the perfume shops and barbers' shops around the most holy Great Church, and even more so inside it. These deserve severe punishment,' the lawyers impotently insist.

? ? ? ? ? 對香料和芳香劑的一些需求來自宗教。為了幫助他們的顧客并增加他們的利潤，經(jīng)銷商在圣索菲亞區(qū)設(shè)立了攤位，顯然有時就在大教堂內(nèi)?！安坏迷谑サ貎?nèi)開設(shè)商店或展示食品或進行其他銷售，”特魯洛市議會的大典（第 76 條）指示，這是某些人確實這樣做的可靠證據(jù)。盡管有教規(guī)，他們?nèi)岳^續(xù)這樣做：佐納拉斯和西奧多巴爾薩蒙后來的評論引起了人們對這個問題的關(guān)注。請注意，這與那些在最神圣的大教堂周圍的香水店和理發(fā)店交易的人有關(guān)，在里面更是如此。這些行為應(yīng)該受到嚴厲的懲罰，律師們無力堅持。

The perfumiers' shops even find their way into literature. For reasons that will become evident, Constantinople was fascinated by spices and aromatics - some of its inhabitants even more than others. The Empress Zoe, joint ruler of the Empire in 1042 and a power behind the throne for a rather longer period, took a very special interest in the subject, as Michael Psellus makes clear.

? ? ? [Zoe] was an enthusiast for all the most exotic [Indikotata, literally 'the most Indian'] of substances, and particularly for aromatic woods that had not yet lost their natural juices, and for special very small olives, and for very white bay berries ... Her only occupation, to which she devoted all her efforts, was to blend perfumes and to make aromas, to invent or replicate or improve them. Her private apartment was no more royal than a workshop off the market-place complete with perfumers and distillers: she had braziers set up all round it, and her maids were all employed in weighing, blending and other such work.

? ? ? ? ? 調(diào)香師的商店甚至進入文學領(lǐng)域。 出于顯而易見的原因，君士坦丁堡對香料和芳香劑著迷——其中一些居民甚至比其他人更感興趣。佐伊皇后是 1042 年帝國的共同統(tǒng)治者，并且在相當長的時期內(nèi)是王位背后的權(quán)力，正如邁克爾·普塞勒斯所明確指出的那樣，她對這個主題非常感興趣。

? ? ? ? ? [佐伊] 熱衷于所有最具異國情調(diào)的 [Indikotata，字面意思是“最印度的”] 物質(zhì)，尤其是尚未失去天然汁液的芳香木材，特別是非常小的橄欖，以及非常白的海灣漿果... 她唯一的職業(yè)，她全力以赴，就是調(diào)配香水和制造香味，發(fā)明或復制或改進它們。她的私人公寓并不比市場外的一個工作室更奢華，那里有調(diào)香師和釀酒師：她的四周都放著火盆，她的女仆們都被雇來做稱重、混合和其他類似的工作。

The courtier Psellus evidently had occasion (on Palace business of course) to invade Zoe's apartment, to inhale its charged atmosphere and to observe her maids toiling over their unfamiliar tasks. He is no doubt right that Zoe's private hobby was an unusual one for an empress. But the scent of spices and aromatics was a normal one in the Imperial apartments. The Book of Ceremonies, which will not be suspected of lying on such matters, lists a whole range of them that must be stocked in the emperor's cabinet, 'ointments, various incenses, fumigations: mastic, frankincense, sugar, saffron, musk, ambergris, aloes and dry aloeswood, true cinnamon of first and second grades, cassia [xylokinnamomon] and other aromatics'. The list begins to show us how many uses such products had, with those initial words 'ointments, incenses, fumigations', to which one might add 'medicines, flavourings for foods and drinks'.

? ? ? ? ? 朝臣 Psellus 顯然有機會（當然是為了宮廷事務(wù)）闖入 Zoe 的公寓，感受其中充滿活力的氣氛，并觀察她的女仆們辛勤地完成他們不熟悉的任務(wù)。毫無疑問，佐伊的私人愛好對于一位皇后來說是不尋常的，他是對的。但香料和香料的氣味在皇家公寓里是很正常的?！抖Y記》，不會懷疑在這些事情上撒謊，列出了一系列必須存放在皇帝內(nèi)閣中的物品，“藥膏，各種香，熏蒸：乳香、乳香、糖、藏紅花、麝香、龍涎香、沉香和干沉香、一級和二級真肉桂、決明子 [xylokinnamomon] 和其他芳香劑。該清單開始向我們展示這些產(chǎn)品有多少用途，最初的詞是“軟膏、熏香、熏蒸”，人們可能會在其中添加“藥物、食品和飲料的調(diào)味劑”。

?Spices and perfumes were necessities across the whole Mediterranean and Near Eastern world. Here Constantinople was not at odds with its neighbours. The importance of exotic aromatics is signalled afresh by a curious story of military standoff in the sixth century, at the period when the nomadic Avars were threatening the Empire's northern frontier.

? ? ? Meanwhile the Avar Khagan gathered his forces and advanced through Moesia, suddenly appearing at the gates of Tomis. Priscus heard of this and made for the threatened city. Romans and enemy both encamped in the neighbourhood of Tomis and did not break camp when winter came on.

? ? ? As spring approached, the Roman troops faced famine, which became acute just before the great Feast of the Passion and Resurrection [30 March 598]. The Khagan miraculously made an offer to the Romans to relieve their famine. Priscus was puzzled and suspicious at this unusual offer, but after guarantees from both sides a five-day truce was agreed: fears were allayed, and the Khagan sent wagons laden with food to the starving Romans. This instance of enemy compassion is still counted as a miracle.

? ? ? Three days later, while the Romans were enjoying this unexpected windfall, the Khagan sent Priscus a request for some Indian spices. The general, in response, sent pepper, tejpat, cassia and putchuk, and the enemy leader took great pleasure in these exotic aromas. During the subsequent cease-fire, which lasted until the Romans had celebrated their great public festival, the two forces mingled with no fear on either side.

? ? ? ? ? 香料和香水是整個地中海和近東世界的必需品。君士坦丁堡在這里與其鄰國并無矛盾。 6 世紀一個關(guān)于軍事對峙的奇怪故事再次表明了異國香料的重要性，當時游牧的阿瓦爾人正威脅著帝國的北部邊境。

? ? ? ? ? 與此同時，阿瓦爾可汗集結(jié)了他的軍隊，穿過莫西亞，突然出現(xiàn)在托米斯前。普里斯庫斯聽說了這件事，便前往受威脅的城市。羅馬人和敵人都在托米斯附近安營扎寨，冬天來臨時沒有休息。

? ? ? ? ? 隨著春天的臨近，羅馬軍隊面臨饑荒，就在偉大的激情和復活盛宴（598 年 3 月 30 日）之前變得嚴重?？珊蛊孥E般地向羅馬人提出了解除饑荒的提議。 普里斯庫斯對這個不尋常的提議感到困惑和懷疑，但在雙方保證后，雙方同意了為期五天的休戰(zhàn)：恐懼得到緩解，可汗派出滿載食物的馬車補給饑餓的羅馬人。 這種對仇敵的慈悲，至今仍算奇跡。

? ? ? ? ? 三天后，正當羅馬人享受這意外的意外之財時，可汗向普里斯庫斯提出要一些印度香料的請求。作為回應(yīng)，將軍送來胡椒、tejpat、決明子和putchuk，敵方首領(lǐng)對這些異國情調(diào)的香氣非常滿意。在隨后的?；鹌陂g，一直持續(xù)到羅馬人慶祝了他們的盛大公共節(jié)日，兩股力量混合在一起，雙方都沒有恐懼。

未完待續(xù)！